Apologies for the crickets around here lately; I’ve been busy with some other stuff that’s left cooking (not to mention blogging about cooking) a little low on my priority list. Actually, that’s only half the reason. The other cause of my cooking hiatus is the sweltering, mind-numbing, near dehabilitating heat that’s settled over London in the last few weeks.

I am not a girl who deals well with high temperatures. Give me a snowstorm over a heatwave any day. Don’t get me wrong, I’ll happily take some 30+ degrees weather when lying on a beach somewhere, with nothing more taxing to do than flip the pages of the latest Kate Atkinson novel. But faced with the task of going to work, exercising, turning on the oven or – worst of all – going on the London underground in anything more than tepid weather, and I’m a mess.

Some occasions however, are worth the effort. The other day my sister and I met up with the lovely, talented and very cool Dana of Dana Treat for lunch. On the last leg of a whirlwind 40th birthday trip, Dana and her husband Randy had taken in Cannes and Paris before Eurostar-ing it to London, where they once lived. Hilary and I had been looking forward to meeting one of our “internet heroes” for weeks, though in some ways we already felt like old friends.

We chose Ottolenghi, the celebrated Middle Eastern-inspired deli in north London, for this auspicious event. It was a resounding success; the restaurant was (mercifully) air-conditioned, and the food delicious. Though not strictly vegetarian, Ottolenghi is famous for their salads, so Dana and I were in veggie heaven. The company wasn’t bad either; Hil and I picked Dana’s brains on everything from making macarons (tricky, but fun) to motherhood (the same, though on a grander scale). The three of us talked blogging, photography, careers and travel for over two hours before forcing ourselves to venture back into the London heat.

Today, it seems as though that heat has finally broken. Inspired by our lunch, I reached for my brand-new copy of Plenty, the Yotam Ottolenghi cookbook which Dana and I both have. Though I want to make nearly everything in this gorgeous book, I settled on a simple sauté of chickpeas, carrots and spinach to ease me back into the cooking zone.

Time will tell whether it worked, of course. I can say that this was the second most delicious lunch I’ve had this week, even if I did have to eat it all alone.

• Chickpea Sauté with Greek Yogurt Sauce
• adapted from Plenty by Yottam Ottolenghi
• serves 3
• For the sauté:
  1 tsp. cumin seeds
  2 Tbs. olive oil
  4 carrots, peeled and diced
  1 red onion, chopped
  1 garlic clove, minced
  250g freshly cooked chickpeas (or 1 x 400g can, drained)
  100g baby spinach, rinsed
  1 Tbs. finely chopped coriander
  1 Tbs. finely chopped parsley
  1 Tbs. lemon juice
  sea salt and black pepper, to taste

  For the sauce:
  100g Greek yogurt
  1 Tbs. olive oil
  1 Tbs. lemon juice
  1 tsp. finely chopped coriander
  1 tsp. finely chopped parsley
  sea salt and black pepper, to taste

• 1. First, make the sauce. Mix together all ingredients in a small bowl, salt and pepper to taste, and set aside.

  2. Heat a large pan over medium-high heat add the cumin seeds. Toast for 1-2 minutes, until fragrant and beginning to colour. Add the olive oil and carrots and cook, stirring frequently, for 5-6 minutes. The carrots should begin to become tender and get some colour.

  3. Add the onion and garlic and cook for another 5 minutes or so until soft and translucent. Add the chickpeas and cook for 2-3 minutes until hot through. Add the spinach, herbs and lemon juice and cook for just enough time for the spinach to wilt. Remove from heat, season to taste and serve with the yogurt sauce on the side.

You know, it’s funny. For most of my life thus far, I’ve professed to be a hater of salads. I know, it’s difficult to imagine hating something as innocuous and unassuming as a salad. It wasn’t a passionate hatred; I’ve always happily munched of lettuce and veg (no dressing, please) after dinner with the rest of my family. But as something to spend time making? As something to get excited about? As something to actually pay for in a restaurant? Please, I had better things to eat.

Which makes it all the more surprising that over the last few years, I’ve become obsessed with salads. My Mum might say that this is evidence of me “growing up”, but I know better. What really sparked this change of heart was discovering that salads don’t have to have lettuce. They can have vegetables. Or legumes, or cheese, or even pasta! Suddenly, a whole new world of dishes opens up when you realise that “salad” just means “dish served cold or at room temperature”.

This particular salad is an adaption of one in Falling Cloudberries by Tessa Kiros. I reviewed this book last summer and at the time gave it three stars, though I’m beginning to think it deserves more. Lately, I want to eat everything I see in this multi-cultural gem of a book. Tessa’s Greek-inspired Chickpea and Feta Salad takes chickpeas, feta cheese, red onion, green onion, fresh herbs, lemon juice and olive oil and somehow turns it into more than the sum of its parts.

It’s not the simplest salad you’ll come across. There’s rather a lot of simmering, chopping, sautéeing and marinating to do, but it’s worth it. This is by far the best chickpea salad I’ve ever had. Even if you’re a salad hater, a chickpea hater or a feta hater, I think you should try this. I know I’ll be eating it all summer (though I might munch on the odd bit of naked lettuce, too).

• Chickpea and Feta Salad
• adapted from Falling Cloudberries by Tessa Kiros
• serves 6 as a side; 3 as a main
• 1/3 cup + 2 Tbs. olive oil
  1 leek, sliced lengthwise and chopped (white and light green parts only)
  1 small red onion, finely chopped
  1-2 red chilies, de-seeded and finely chopped
  3 garlic cloves, finely chopped
  approx. 500g chickpeas, either from a can or cooked from dried
  200g feta, crumbled
  4 green onions, finely chopped (dark and light green parts only)
  1/3 cup finely chopped coriander
  2 Tbs. finely chopped mint
  zest and juice of 1 lemon
  sea salt and black pepper, to taste
• 1. Heat 2 Tbs. of the olive oil in a nonstick pan over medium-low heat. Gently cook the leek and red onion for 8-10 minutes, until very soft and beginning to turn golden. Add the chili and garlic and cook for another minute or two until very fragrant- be careful not to brown the garlic. Remove from heat and set aside to cool.
  
  2. Place the chickpeas, feta, green onions, coriander, mint, lemon zest, lemon juice and remaining olive oil in a large bowl. When it’s cool enough not to melt the feta, add the mixture from the frying pan and gently stir everything to combine. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Leave salad for at least one hour (or as many as 24) in the fridge; the flavours will meld and improve.

See those leftovers? That was last night’s dinner, and today’s lunch. Some meals are just like that; as soon as you put down your fork after the first go-round, you’re already looking forward to the leftovers. I admit to making certain things for dinner just because I love the leftovers so much- bizarre, no?

I didn’t know this recipe was going to be one of those, but after one dinner and one lunch, I’m already hooked. I came across this Spicy Chickpea Stew while browsing The Kitchn‘s archives one bored afternoon. A guest post from Michael of the blog Herbivoracious, it caught my eye primarily because it uses two ingredients that I love eating, but am constantly struggling to get excited about cooking: cauliflower and chickpeas.

This “stew” (more like a curry, really) is made by simmering roast cauliflower florets in a mixture of onion, spices and chickpeas. The flavour is slightly different from my usual curries, in that it includes a healthy dose of cinnamon (yum!) and fennel seeds (not usually a favourite of mine, but they work here).

Last night, I served this over brown rice with a dollop of Greek yogurt on the side. As delicious as it was, Andrew still felt that there was something missing. I think I hit on the right formula for my lunch today, though: served over pasta and sprinkled with cold feta cheese. But don’t think I’ll be letting him in on this discovery- more leftovers for me, this way.

• Spicy Cauliflower and Chickpea Stew
• adapted from this recipe by Herbivoracious
• serves 4 with rice, pasta or couscous
• 1 head cauliflower, cut into bite-sized florets
  4 Tbs. olive oil
  2 1/2 tsp. ground cumin
  sea salt
  1 large onion, finely chopped
  2 cloves garlic, minced
  2 Tbs. tomato paste
  1 tsp. ground turmeric
  1 tsp. ground cinnamon
  1 tsp. fennel seeds
  1 tsp. cayenne pepper
  2 cups cooked (or canned and rinsed) chickpeas
  juice of one lemon
  black pepper
  1/4 cup chopped coriander, to serve
  1/2 cup crumbled feta cheese, to serve
• 1. Preheat the oven to 200°C/400°F. Toss the cauliflower florets with 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a large baking pan. Sprinkle with 1/2 teaspoon of the cumin and a pinch or two of sea salt and roast for 20-30 minutes, until very tender and starting to brown all over. (Stir once or twice to ensure even roasting.)
  
  2. Meanwhile, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a large non-stick saucepan and add the onion. Cook for 8-10 minutes over medium heat until soft and golden. Add the garlic and tomato paste and continue cooking for another minute or two, then add the remaining cumin, the turmeric, cinnamon, fennel seeds and cayenne. Cook for about 30 seconds until the spices are very fragrant.
  
  3. Add the chickpeas, lemon juice and about one cup of water. Cover and simmer over low heat until the cauliflower are done; when they are, add to the pan and bring everything to a low boil. Using a potato masher or the back of a wooden spoon, try to crush some of the chickpeas and cauliflower to thicken the sauce- you may need to add more water to achieve a “stew-like” consistency.
  
  4. Season to taste with salt and black pepper, then serve over rice, couscous or pasta. Sprinkle the coriander and feta over the top.

Last night, Andrew and I went out for drinks and food with a friend who’d recently moved back to London. Because I like cooking and am pretty good at it (and yes, am somewhat of a cheapskate), we don’t go out for food too often. Restaurant meals can easily lead to conversation like “Oh, I could make this so much better at home” or “This would be great if you just replaced x with y, or served it alongside some fresh z“. You get the idea- hardly a relaxing way to spend an evening. Still, we were both looking forward to this night on the town, and ventured out with optimism.

After an al fresco pint at a central London dive pub, we ended up at Hix, a Soho restaurant that specialises in British food. We opted to eat at the swanky downstairs bar, and while I loved the extensive cocktail list, the food menu was positively heaving with meat. Beef, lamb, partridge, deer- seriously, it was like this restaurant was playing host to the BBC Young Butcher of the Year competition (no, I’m not kidding- it’s a real show).

I wasn’t all that hungry, so I didn’t mind ordering a starter for my veggie kicks. The Autumn Squash salad was delicious, beautifully presented, and left me with room for dessert (always a bonus), but wasn’t really what I was in the mood for. It was only at the end of the night, after we’d polished off our steamed treacle pudding and drained the last drop from our macchiatos, that we noticed three tiny words printed on the back page of the menu: Vegetarian Menu Available.

I’ll just let that sink in for a minute.

Can you believe that? I’d certainly never seen it before- in London or anywhere else. Rather than upsetting me, the news that there had been an entire vegetarian menu available to me just made me laugh. When I awoke this morning, though, I knew I’d make getting some compromise-free, veggielicious food inside me top priority.

I’d been thinking about this dish of Spiced Sweet Potatoes and Chickpeas ever since Sara posted it last month on her blog Sprouted Kitchen. Sweet potatoes always seem so exotic to me (as far as American things can be exotic to a Canadian), because I never had them growing up. Equally exotic is the idea of roasting chickpeas, since I usually have them in curries or salads.

I simplified the flavours somewhat, opting to focus on the combination of ginger, lime and Eastern spices. Served on a bed of spinach and drizzled with a sweet and tangy coriander dressing, the result was the perfect antidote to yesterday’s sleight.

• Roasted and Spiced Chickpeas and Sweet Potatoes
• inspired by Spiced Sweet Potatoes and Chickpeas from Sprouted Kitchen
• serves 2-3
• Chickpeas and Potatoes
  1 cup soaked and simmered chickpeas (roughly equal to 1 x 400g can), rinsed and drained
  2 medium sweet potatoes, peeled and chopped into 1/2″ cubes
  1 tsp. ground coriander
  3/4 tsp. cumin seeds
  1 tsp. sea salt
  1 garlic clove, minced
  1 Tbs. minced fresh ginger
  zest of 1 lime
  juice of 1/2 a lime
  2 Tbs. olive oil
  
  Dressing
  2 Tbs. olive oil
  juice of 1/2 a lime
  1 Tbs. honey
  1/2 tsp. minced fresh ginger
  1/4 cup finely chopped spring onions
  2 Tbs. finely chopped coriander
  pinch of sea salt
  black pepper, to taste
  
  To serve
  several handfuls fresh spinach, rinsed and dried
• 1. Preheat oven to 200°C/400°F. In a medium-sized bowl, combine the chickpeas and chopped potatoes with the coriander, cumin, sea salt, garlic, ginger and lime zest. Drizzle over the lime juice and olive oil and mix well to coat everything.
  
  2. Spread the mixture into a rimmed baking sheet or shallow baking pan (if it’s on the small side, use two). Bake for 40 minutes, stirring halfway to ensure even browning.
  
  3. While the chickpeas and potatoes are roasting, prepare the dressing. Whisk together all ingredients in small bowl and set aside.
  
  4. When the chickpeas and potatoes come out of the oven, let them cool for ten minutes or so before proceeding- you want this to be warm, not hot. Serve over the spinach with the dressing drizzled on top, either individually or from a large platter.

There’s something about traveling that makes your own habits, culinary or otherwise, glaringly obvious. It’s only when you’re taken out of your day-to-day routine that odd quirks, individual preferences and (at times) OCD tendencies come to light.

Take my recent trip home, for instance. It was wonderful not to worry about cooking for a spell, to simply relax and enjoy the delicious meals presented by my Mum, aunts, Grandma and various waiters, and not think about the cleanup or health factor (holiday food doesn’t have calories, right?). But food prepared by others, no matter how delicious, is never done exactly the way you’d do it, is it?

So when we got home last week, I began (somewhat grudgingly) to cook my own way again. As I was sprinkling some chili flakes into some-or-other dish with which to soothe and nourish our jet-lagged souls, Andrew came into the kitchen and paused. “Your family doesn’t like spicy foods as much as we do, do they?” he asked.

I stopped in mid-stir, thinking. It’s not as if I grew up eating bland, flavourless food or anything; in fact, both my parents profess to like spicy foods. But Andrew was right: there was a decided lack of spice on this most recent holiday. In fact, the only dish I recall eating that had my preferred level of heat was one that I made myself. (Yes, my mum insisted that I cook a non-traditional Thanksgiving meal for my aunt, uncle and cousins one night: cannelloni, braised cabbage and pumpkin pie.) But if my parents’ version of spicy isn’t exactly the same as mine, it’s probably due to breadth rather than depth. I’m sure they see spice as something limited to certain kinds of foods, while in my opinion, there’s precious little that can’t be made more delicious with a pinch of dried pepper flakes or a sprinkling of chopped fresh chili.

Ironically (after all that), this dish is not actually all that spicy. It is, however, wonderfully fragrant, sweet, and absolutely perfect for this time of year. The recipe, from Nigel Slater’s new book, originally called for pumpkin, which I didn’t have any of at the time. It was tasty with my favourite squash though, so much so that I’m sure I’ll be making it again this way.

The naan is adapted from a Deborah Madison recipe I’ve used for several years, though I opt to grill these rather than bake them, as she suggests. Crispy outside and doughy inside, with a a smear of melted butter and a sprinkle of sea salt, they’re the perfect accompaniment to not just this, but any curry. And they’ll take the edge off anything too-spicy, in case your tastes run opposite to mine ;)

• Squash and Chickpea Curry with Lemongrass and Coriander
• adapted from Nigel Slater’s Tender, Volume I
• serves 4
• 2 Tbs. olive oil (or use a neutral vegetable one if you prefer)
  1 large onion, chopped
  3 stalks lemongrass, outer leaves removed
  3 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed
  thumb-sized piece of ginger, peeled
  2 tsp ground coriander
  1 tsp ground turmeric
  4 cardamom pods, crushed
  2 hot red chilis, finely chopped (or 1/2 tsp. crushed chili flakes)
  1 small butternut squash, peeled, seeded and cut into bite-sized chunks
  200g dried chickpeas, soaked overnight and simmered until tender (or use 2 x 400g cans)
  1 x 400g can of coconut milk
  approx. 1 cup of stock (or water)
  1/4 cup chopped fresh coriander
• 1. Heat the oil in a large, heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium-low heat. When the oil is hot, add the onions and cook until soft and translucent.
  
  2. Meanwhile, make a rough paste of the garlic, lemongrass and ginger, either using a food processor or a mortar and pestle. Add this to the onions, along with the coriander, turmeric, cardamom and chili. Stir well and continue to cook over a low heat (you may need to add some water to keep the mixture from sticking).
  
  3. Add the squash and chickpeas, and pour in the coconut milk. Add just enough stock or water to almost cover the squash (about 1 cup), then partially cover the pan and simmer until the squash is tender to your liking. This should take 20-25 minutes; if you feel there is too much liquid, remove the lid toward the end of the cooking time and allow some of the moisture to evaporate.
  
  4. Remove curry from the heat and stir in the chopped coriander. Serve with naan (recipe below) and a dollop of Greek yogurt.

• Naan
• adapted from Deborah Madison’s Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone
• makes 4 small naans
• 1 tsp. instant yeast
  1/3 cup plain yogurt (I use Greek-style)
  2 Tbs. butter
  3/4 tsp. sea salt
  1/2 cup hot water
  1 1/2 cups plain flour (I sometimes use 1 cup plain and 1/2 cup whole wheat)
  1 tsp. butter (for the tops, optional)
  sea salt (for sprinkling, optional)
• 1. Put the yeast, yogurt, butter and salt together in a medium bowl. Pour over the hot water and whisk until the butter has melted and everything is mixed together.
  
  2. Gradually add in the flour, stirring with a wooden spoon or a dough whisk. Turn out onto a lightly floured surface and knead for 3-4 minutes, until smooth. The dough should be soft but not too sticky; you may need to add a bit more flour. Place the dough in an oiled bowl, cover and let rise for 1 hour.
  
  3. Preheat the grill/broiler. Divide the dough into 4 pieces and pull, stretch or roll each one into a flat, oblong shape. Arrange the naans on a nonstick baking sheet and place under the grill until the tops begin to brown, about 4 minutes. Flip and cook the other sides until they brown, too.
  
  4. If you like, brush 1/4 tsp. of butter on the top of each naan as soon as they are removed from the oven. Sprinkle over some sea salt (I also like chopped fresh coriander on these) and serve with any type of curry.

I’ve been fighting a summer cold for the last few days. I always find fair-weather illness extremely annoying- not only do you feel sick, but you feel guilty for feeling sick. We’re made to feel that colds should only occur when it’s, you know, cold, so we convince ourselves that we should feel fine- after all, the sun is shining outside and the temperature is balmy. But, try as we might, we just can’t ignore the sniffling, sneezing and unmistakable presence of phlegm. (Sorry, I do realize that the word “phlegm” has no place on a food blog. It won’t happen again.)

Luckily, there are things that can make us feel better, the most important one being food. Sure, people are always saying that “drinking lots of fluids” and “getting enough vitamin C” are the surest ways back to health, but I prefer my medicine in a comforting, home-cooked package. Common knowledge tells us that chicken noodle soup is the cold cure-all, and though I don’t eat chicken, I’m not about to argue with Common Knowledge. 

So, what’s the vegetarian equivalent of chicken noodle soup? I think the jury might still be out on that one, but this soup did me just fine when I made it a few days ago. Adapted from my book du jour, Jamie’s Italy, it’s part pasta dish, part thick stew, and completely delicious. 

Made from chickpeas, pasta and not much else, its simplicity will appeal to your inner child in need of nourishment. But using good stock and topped with fresh parsley and parmesan, it’s flavourful enough to appeal to the more healthy among us, as well. What can I say?  I’m may not be cured, but at least I’m well-fed.

• Chickpea and Pasta Soup
• adapted from Jamie’s Italy by Jamie Oliver
• 2 Tbs. olive oil
  1 small onion, chopped finely
  1 stick of celery, chopped finely
  2 cloves garlic, minced
  1 tsp. dried thyme
  2 x 400g cans chickpeas, drained and rinsed
  500ml vegetable stock or water
  100g macaroni, ditalini or other small pasta shape (about 1 cup)
  salt and pepper to taste
  1/4 cup grated parmesan cheese
  2 Tbs. chopped parsley
• 1. Heat the olive oil in a large, heavy-bottomed saucepan over low heat. Add the onion, celery, garlic and thyme, and cook, with the lid on, for about 15 minutes. The onion should be very soft and translucent, but should not colour. 

  2. Add the chickpeas and stock, re-cover, and cook for 30 minutes. Remove from heat. 

  3. Using a slotted spoon, remove about half the chickpeas to a bowl. Puree the remaining chickpeas and broth, using an immersion blender (or a food precessor). Return the whole chickpeas to the pot, along with the pasta and a good pinch of salt.

  4. Return pot to the heat and cook gently, covered, until the pasta is tender. This will take slightly longer than the package indicates, as the soup is so thick. If the soup seems too thick to cook the pasta, add some boiling water from the kettle. 

  5. When the pasta is cooked, remove soup from the heat and season to taste, adding a good amount of black pepper. Stir in most of the parmesan and parsley and allow to cool for five minutes. Serve with the remaining parmesan and parsley as a garnish. 

I realize that this curry, relying as it does on pantry staples, seems a little odd for the time of year. It’s hearty and filling and doesn’t require any fresh produce at all, nor half the attention I lavish on other dishes during these warmer months. What can I say, though? Sometimes I find myself craving something warm and spicy, and sometimes I just plain can’t be bothered with all the washing, chopping and cooking that (most) fresh veggies ask of me. At times like that, whatever the season, I turn to this recipe.

I’ve been making this dish, or versions thereof, for about as long as Andrew and I have been living in this flat. We love Indian food, and though there are many great curry houses in the area (six in a three-block radius; it is London, after all), all the curries, sidedishes, naans and rice can eventually take their toll, on wallet and waistline. Sometimes, we prefer to stay in and have something a bit simpler. This recipe is quick, delicious and healthy; served with brown rice and a dollop of Greek yogurt, it’s almost better than the restaurant fare. 

Fantastically easy, it’s also made up entirely of things you’re likely to find in your kitchen cupboards at this moment. I don’t think of it as any particular kind of curry- that is, I’m not sure if it qualifies as a Chana Masala or any other variety. Rather, it’s just a combination of ingredients and flavours that I like, and usually have lying around: canned chickpeas, chopped tomatoes and a generous dose of dried spices. 

It certainly doesn’t disappoint for its lack of authenticity, though, and I defy any curry lover not to like this dish. It might be hearty and filling, but it’s not heavy; the fresh ginger and coriander keep things bright and vibrant. So don’t feel like you have to wait for the winter to make it. I certainly don’t. 

• Spicy Chickpea Curry
• serves 4
• 3 Tbs. olive oil
  1 medium onion, chopped
  2 cloves garlic, minced
  1″ piece of ginger, minced 
  1 tsp. ground cumin
  1 tsp. ground coriander
  1/2 tsp. turmeric
  1/2 tsp. cayenne pepper
  1/2 tsp. chili flakes
  1/4 tsp. ground cinnamon
  2 x 400g cans chickpeas, drained and rinsed
  1 x 400g can chopped tomatoes 
  1 tsp. sea salt
  chopped fresh coriander, to serve
  plain greek yogurt, to serve 
• 1. Heat the olive oil in a large, heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium heat (I use a dutch oven). When the oil is hot, add the onion and cook for five minutes, until soft and translucent. 
  
  2. Add the garlic and ginger, and cook for another minutes. Add the cumin, coriander, turmeric, cayenne, chili flakes and cinnamon, and cook for another minute. 
  
  3. Add the chickpeas, tomatoes and salt to the pan and stir. If the mixture seems too dry, add a bit of water, maybe half a cup. Cover, turn the heat down to low and cook for 20 minutes, stirring occasionally and adding water if necessary. Let the curry sit for ten minutes before serving with rice, yogurt and fresh coriander.